Always Water, Always Washing

I join Thane's student where she is washing clothes, and I am washing brushes. Today Thane took me to the National Park to see the waterfall, a longer, taller waterfall than I have ever seen on all my waterfall hunting excursions in NC. Took a picnic of tea leaf salad, sticky rice cooked in bamboo, and fresh cut pineapple on skewers bought at the market before we left. We hiked up, got a new view of more falls, swam in pools of icy water, kept climbing for even more of the waterfall. Tomorrow I will go to the border to see the Friendship Bridge, then to the orphanage I just learned of. New chapter.

"Back home" in Mae Sot-- no snowstorm here

Taught my last art class Friday morning, then jumped in a car Thane rented. Just got back in town after trying to get to a border town and the house boat we reserved. We drove 3 or 4 hours in the mountains on twisty roads, got to Umphang and asked where the road we were on continued on out of town. It didn't. End of road. End of story. We couldn't get where we wanted to go without backtracking and spending another 15 hours on the road. So visited a cave, slept in a hut along the river, and returned today. I have filled up every camera card about 3 times each, and my flash drive with photos. So I need to find a place to download them to CDs or something. Yikes. Who would have guessed?

Got a head massage and shampoo (20 minutes of bliss!) and hair cut (three women combed out my hair!). Met a woman who works in an orphanage and she invited me to teach an art class. Of course! So tomorrow we bike 45 minutes out of town to the orphanage. I can't wait to meet the 26 children. So, I knew something else would make itself known to me, and my last few days here are filling up. The same woman also invited me to the clinic where 2500 Burmese children were born last year. And then there is the circus that is coming to visit lots of orphanages. So I'll have to squeeze that in too.
I've only been here a week, and it seems like a month... I already know how to bicycle all over town, and even say hello to people I know on their bicycles and motobikes as I go thru the streets.

It's so sunny and hot here, it is difficult for me to imagine your snowstorm and power outages. But I do remember. Here's hoping you all are warm and safe and get at least a day off of work.

2 out of 3

I taught my first workshop yesterday, at a school for Burmese students preparing to take their GED. The entire ground was covered with paintings drying by the time we were finished. They had tissue papered, mono-printed, and painted... totally exceeding my expectations.
Today, I taught at the school where Thane teaches -- a class of 30 including the director and a couple of other teachers. It was invigorating, to say the least. They are so resourceful -- laying their wet paintings in bushes and trees to dry, mixing paint colors in a green leaf they picked, gathering delicate stems and leaves from their huge garden to add to their paintings. It was so exciting. I knew I would learn from them, and I am amazed at the magnitude of that possibility.
They have been so enthusiastic, I had to go buy more paper for tomorrow's workshop -- at a new school with 26 students. Thane and I rode his motorbike with backpacks full of art supplies-- on our backs, our fronts, and wedged between us... to deliver them to the school so I can ride my bicycle there first thing in the morning.
Directly after, we are going to a festival some 7 or 8 hours away where we will stay on a houseboat for two nights.

I am so lucky to know people like these students --so eager, talented, and absolutely lovely people. I am resisting the idea that oppression is what creates such a gracious spirit in someone.

More soon. Love to hear from you.

Mae Sot

Checked out of the LKN Inn in Bangkok, got a taxi to the bus station, asked for the bus to Mae Sot, just as Thane explained I would. "Full." That's all the young woman could say. The bus was full. With one a day, all I could say was "NO!" Then she said there was a second class bus (like I care what class it is!!). When does it leave? She said, "in one minute." I bought it, ran with way more stuff than anyone in the right mind should ever bring anywhere... and got to the bus just as the driver was getting up in his seat. Perfect! No waiting. Only a little sweat. I relaxed into the 8 1/2 hour ride next to a perfectly charming Thai woman who adopted me, showed me to the toilet when the bus stopped, even paid my 3 baht fee! Beautiful ride, coming up into the mountains.
Then picked me up on his motorbike. (wish I had a picture of this with luggage and backpacks -- more wait than Thane has every balanced, I'm sure)
I am at a wonderful guest house with hot water and fan, sparkling floors and western toilet. We walked around the shops where Thane had scouted out art paper. I bought all they had of a large white paper, asked for a discount, and the total came to Malcolm's contribution! Thanks Malcolm! I plan to cut it up in different sizes for the students to use.
We went to the night market to meet Thane's friends... they came from everywhere, and it was quite fun. Guess any newcomer is a novelty, but I felt very welcomed here. Every single person has an amazing background and story. One thing in common, the core values of helping people who have less opportunity, knowing what materials things they really need and what they can do without, and no pretense, only curiosity for the world and cultures around them. What a joy! We have come so far away from remembering these most important pieces of our lives -- with all the distractions that convince us making and spending money, looking a certain "acceptable" way, and having the right credentials, are what make us good people.

I found my first temple and offered prayers and candles and incense for the well being and miraculous events in the lives of J & C, S & L, S, S, S, J, D&V, B&J on their trip, ... and there will be many more candles.

Thane took me to the office where he teaches the lawyers, and I had lunch with them. One lovely woman is going to take me to a sauna. I've had nothing but wonderful food, of "golden peas" which to me, were fresh snap peas, some sort of leafy soup, fresh cucumbers, tamarind, teeny eggplants, eggs, tofu, greens, pineapple, and of course, rice.

My teaching schedule has already changed, so I'll be teaching Wed., Thursday, and Friday, before we leave for a festival on the border of Burma, but several hours away. Then, will return to mae sot for a few days. I can't believe I then have to think about getting to the airport!

Everything is hot, beautiful, clean, friendly, blooming, and everyone seems truly happy.
More soon. It's only Monday!

(I filled one camera card and will try to get it downloaded today-- maybe I can post a photo or two. Susan, many thanks for the kitty care.)

A day in Bangkok

Slept last night, or this morning, then got up to go to the weekend market. Oh my.... bunnies in 5" x 5" cages, an Art Explorium with fantastic artists, plus all the expected. Then tried out the SkyTrain and got off at Nana, per J & V's recommendation.... and what did I stumble upon in the first instinctual "go straight, then take a left"???? but Popeye Dee's massage. I indulged in an hour foot massage, which included much more than feet, I might point out. Au actually gave me one of their shirts that they wear, so don't be surprised if you hear this name again. I saw the police raid some vendors, a group of kids beat up a single teenager, including a young girl beating him over the head with a bamboo musical instrument. I took a survey by some university students, tried to get to the river in time, but missed the last river taxi. So what? I goofed around along the river, now 8 pm at night, and ran smack dab into a graduation/orientation party for a University here, with band, lights in the trees, free food, etc. I started to back away, and a woman came and befriended me, invited me to join her as her friend at the party. Oh, how usual!!! She insisted I eat popcorn because "it is vegetarian"... and then ice cream with beans and "potato" on top, even though I insisted I didn't want it. She took me to sit with her friends to watch the band and the young girls in their fuzzy tutus, with giveaway prizes and announcements I didn't understand. I finally excused myself and tried to figure out the bus system to get to ... well, somewhere. I asked for Khao San Road, I asked for Wat Arun, Wat Pho, ... all I got was go to bus stop at 711 and take the 15 bus.. I thought it was an address and found out it was the Seven Eleven store! Of course, there is no 15 bus, so the police told me to get on #1.

I did, but got to Khao San Road too quickly, so I asked a taxi to take me to my guesthouse, which no one knows. But with the phone number, we drove about 45 minutes and voila, there is was. My broken suitcase had been returned, repaired, and I dumped my stuff and headed out to EAT.! I managed my first point and shoot meal, as Thane instructed: "No fish, no pork, no chicken" They acted like there was nothing left, but I pointed to my POINT IT book to the page with vegetables. I ended up with really spicy greens (my mother would hate them) and rice. I remembered to ask for rice! I'm not convinced there weren't little fishes in the greens, but I'm quite forgiving when I'm starving. As long as I could use chopsticks, I was happy.

Bangkok is incredibly fun. I could easily spend a month here (as V said)... with concerts and massages, and eating on the fly, and so many temples that take up several city blocks... look like fairy tales.

I think of all of you in so many ways during the day. But for now, I must pack and be ready to get the wake up call (Pound pound pound... illustrated by the mama at my guesthouse...) so I can make the bus to Mae Sot where Thane will be waiting!

Is this heaven?

I hope heaven is as easy to navigate as this....
Maggi

२८ हौर्स later

This computer is typing in Thai. I have no idea how to change it, and no one else does here in the internet shop by my new hotel in Bangkok. Everything was on schedule, everyone delightful, including the flight attendants who stood prepared to bring another meal if I opened my eyes. I watched three movies: Love Happens, Fame, and Paris -- read the lit on Bangkok, and did I mention ate? I managed to get the bulkhead seat to Houston, but when I got there the seats behind were empty, so I just stretched out and slept the entire way! The Capt. came on and said he needed 13 people in the first 12 rows to move back behind row 16 to balance the plane. (some took it personally) So we all moved. Then he came on and said, "Now I need 9 of those people who moved, to move back up." I keep thinking New Math is the theme of this trip. Of course, I raced back up to get my 3 in a row bed, and all was well. I couldn't be happier since I finally slept a couple hours from Narita to Bangkok, and the food got significantly worse (like my last "special meal" was a big huge chicken breast) I exchanged it for some white bread and tough bok choi. Good thing I was full of my special Hindu meals on the main leg.
Tomorrow: SkyTrain and seeing Bangkok from the river taxi. Wish you all could join me.

NewMath

If it's 11 pm here in NC, and it's 12 hours later in Thailand, but I have to leave at 4 am, NC time, is it worth going to bed?

Guess I'll be good and ready to nap on the plane for the next day (or two)...

For now, I'm reeling in the process of leaving, with so much enthusiasm from all of my friends and family. Bags are packed and ready to go.... one bag to check (against my principles) filled with art supplies, thanks to the generous support of Mom and Dad, Susan, Jackie, Joe and Vanessa, Malcolm, Sarah and Vicki...
I hope I can live up to this encouragement.

First order of business in Bangkok: hair cut, and find a temple to light a candle(s) for my friend(s) who need a little miracle in their life.

Thailand 2010

Off to Mae Sot, Thailand to visit my son, Thane, and learn about the people and culture he has come to love so much. On the side, I will teach some art and poetry classes just for fun. It's been over 1 1/2 years since I prepared for a 24 + hour flight(s). (I had the miles, but not the time to go since I was married to the job I lost last month.) And I have never prepared to travel with art supplies and writing prompts. Glad to know there are still unexpected joys in my life if I am open to them.

Don't expect a book out of this one, but then I never expected a book (stateoftheheart.name)when I arranged for Howard to have heart surgery in India in 2004 (howardsheart.com) !